這一天,旅行的目標是搭海賊船造訪箱根神社,接著暢遊入選全國名水百選的忍野八海,然後坐纜車、摸兔腳,晚上夜宿富士五湖的河口湖畔吃螃蟹。很忙吧?我也不知道旅行社怎麼排得進這麼多行程。
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原本以為可以在箱根泡溫泉,沒想到是到箱根神社走一遭就閃人,Esther 和我空歡喜一場。不過由於跟團走,下榻的飯店也多是團客居多。相信應該沒有人願意千里迢迢到日本,然後跟著團客一同人聲喧嘩地下餃子般泡湯吧?「下次再自己來吧,反正現在是大熱天。」心裡好像沒那麼酸了。
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平和鳥居,原為箱根神社的湖畔鳥居,建於 1952 年。在 1964 年,箱根神社為紀念奠基 1200 年和東京奧運開幕紀念,由首相吉田榮作寫下「平和」兩字匾額,從此改稱「平和鳥居」。
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再來介紹一個我有興趣的東西─「蘆之湖」的五名木 (芦ノ湖のけけら木)。古代地震震出蘆之湖底幾段大樹幹的化石 (看這裡),現今保存在一旁的箱根神社寶物殿。不過要收費且時間不夠,我們沒有入內參觀。
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日本是一塊經過常久治理的土地,兼之民族性嚴謹使然,所以每一個角落都是鉅細靡遺地被「照顧」了。該砍的樹不會留,該留的樹不會砍。該開的路不會省,該造的橋不會少。雖然我這樣寫起來看似是「盡善盡美」的淨土,不過實際感覺起來充滿著「無法再進步」的壓抑。這裡不能走、那邊不能丟。你走一小步,我走一小步。人人高度自制、戰戰兢兢,小心翼翼地斟酌與他人之間的距離。坦白說,雖然有這麼漂亮的國土、悠久的歷史和高度發展的工藝,但我並不覺得日本人特別快活,總是有一種壓力圍繞著所有人。當然台灣浮萍般無根的狀況無法與其相提並論 (根本就不是同一個層次,台灣還有太多努力的空間),只是私心來想,日本人也並不快樂就是了。另外一點,就是男性的聲音太少。幾天旅途下來,我甚至連日本男性都看不到幾個,有一點陰盛陽衰的錯覺。
說件有趣的觀察。在日本,男廁是經常要排隊的。原因是日本年輕男性也都上坐式馬桶,站小便斗的人少之又少。我在迪士尼找廁所,排隊半天才發現小便斗旁空無一人。我出列向前,活脫像個不合群的外來客 (你本來就是觀光客)!
下午我們去逛忍野八海。途中常見富士山申請世界文化遺產成功的資訊,紀念品也無所不在。原來富士山經過多年申請,在 2013 年申請世界文化遺產成功。不過我看網路資料 (這裡),申請的項目不是世界自然遺產,而是文化遺產,表示重心不在於「保留自然原貌」,而是富士山在日人心中的崇高地位。不過,當然我懷疑申請成功和國力有差。小國小朋友,只怕家裡的聖山還沒變成遺產,直接變成遺址了。
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「忍野八海」位於山梨縣忍野村。富士山的雪水流經地層數十年後過濾成清澈的泉水,由八處滲出地表因而形成八個池塘。我實際舀了地底湧出的雪水洗手,輕盈透亮,果然涼澈心扉!池中一側有一個 8 米深的出水口,肥大的錦鯉遨遊其中。「應該會活到 100 歲吧。」有這麼乾淨的泉水相伴,魚兒真是幸福。
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下一個景點是到河口湖旁天上山公園搭狸貓兔子纜車。坦白說如果不是旅行團帶隊,這個位置略嫌偏僻的纜車應該沒什麼遊客 (其實是我自己沒興趣)。
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晚上,隨著遊覽車夜宿河口湖旁。飯店是一家小飯店,應該也是有歷史的老飯店。老舊的設備,狹小的廁所,徹底讓我想家了。深夜後一台暴走族的機車經過,頻頻狂催油門,倒是和台北街頭週末夜裡拉轉的小屁孩有得拼。
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以為我愛靜,不過這裡實在靜到沒常理,我不愛。晚上的電視裡,新聞台製作圖表講解台日關係,綜藝台則是邀請小宮崎葵「二階堂富美」當嘉賓。很有特色的女演員,又年輕。回台北後我有事情做了。