隔天一早就醒了,因為這裡的早餐結束得很早。跳上摩托車後我們又四處亂逛,瞭解一下這塊澎湖北邊的最大島。漁民靠天吃飯,所以島上有著許多寺廟。我們到媽祖前面鞠了躬,然後再去昨晚夜涼如水的沙尾遊玩。出乎意料地,早晨的這裡成為烈日逼人的白色沙灘。
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今天的主要活動是出海釣魚,然後是到水上牧場吃牡蠣大餐。船行間,還有海龜在我們的船身旁遊走,可惜沒能拍下照片。船長找了位置下錨,讓所有遊客體驗海釣樂趣。大夥兒一人一竿,掛上熟蝦碎肉就釣了起來。不過我們實在不是碰水的料子,小船出海後就開始暈船,更何況要低頭看魚兒上鉤?幾分鐘後我已經臉色發白,只剩兩個小孩還在硬撐。我們這艘船幸運,出了幾個天才小釣手,起竿聲此起彼落,看來下一團的遊客有口福了 (待會回岸上吃的會是上一團釣的魚貨)。最後,「我釣到了!」哥哥不負眾望,幫我們這一團弱雞釣到了一條!末了,小船總算在我噁心的感覺衝到頂點前返航,而身旁早有乘客吐到不行,把早餐都餵了魚。
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上岸後,工作人員端上一盤炸得香酥的烤魚。我吃了一支,當真是滋味絕佳 (淚水混著汗水)。
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中午,我們搭船離開吉貝回到澎湖,然後搭車到「花菜干」餐廳用餐。老闆收藏了許多早期的海報和童玩,將餐廳佈置得頗具古味。這次出遊真正讓我咋舌的,就是原來海可以那麼大,人可以坐那麼擠 🙂 小小的房間裡擺了 4 張圓桌,竟然真的坐進 40 個人吃飯。阿文這一團,有 20 幾人是家族出遊,搭配上如我們等幾個小家庭和年輕人,坐進小小的房裡真是熱鬧哄哄。
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下午,重頭戲是到海洋牧場餵魚兼吃牡蠣。我們先搭船出海看珊瑚,然後再登上海洋牧場。上下兩層的觀景船造價昂貴,算是船東有心推動觀光的投資。只可惜海浪仍然不夠清澈,可以看到的海景有限。
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海洋牧場原來是座海上的浮島,旁邊散落著許許多多箱型養殖的養殖場。浮島本身有兩層樓的室內區和室外餵養區,室內可以用餐唱歌,室外可以親身餵養海鱺、花枝和鯛魚。坐定後,工作人員將新鮮牡蠣大把大把倒在大簍子裡,讓所有遊客隨意品嘗。放上炭火,三五分鐘後等待開殼後就可挖開貝肉,再烤到貝肉全熟,就能享用鮮美的牡蠣。工作人員說,牡蠣欠打又欠喬 (台語),意思就是烤牡蠣時可以先敲敲打打,讓牡蠣外殼鬆動,然後待殼開後再用夾子挖開貝殼即可。一桌兩爐,海洋牧場內場滿滿都是食指大動的遊客。不過細心的 Esther 還是要我們少吃,免得回家痛風發作。隔壁的一家人可是把握良機,一顆顆大牡蠣如流水席般不斷擺上烤盤,然後在木桌上疊起一座座牡蠣殼小山。
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在浮台上隨著海浪浮載浮沉,整個世界也都晃了起來。小隻的頭暈坐不住,跟哥哥早到外面餵魚去了。Esther 和我滿身黏,但外島哪有淡水可用,連洗臉台的水都是淡化海水。不過這裡的海鮮粥滋味極好,無限量供應,讓我吃了一碗又一碗。
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回程上了岸,腦袋還在一上一下,浮浮沉沉,又被阿文帶去看張雨生和潘安邦的故居。不過這種太過人文的東西,少了「人」,實在很難引起興趣。我們單在門口晃了晃就返身上車。張雨生,可惜了你一個英才,我們好想念你的歌聲,你的人。
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晚上,又是海味大餐。阿文介紹這是一家料好實在的餐廳,所有食材都是老闆每天親自到漁港進魚,菜餚都是現場烹調,不到水果上桌,絕對不要離席。招牌的紅蟳粥、河豚魚皮、燙魷魚、清蒸石斑、花枝丸、炒螃蟹和味增魚湯,八九道菜,道道美味。
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晚上,Esther 到旅館大廳旁藥房買點常用藥。年邁的老闆操著濃濃的日本腔,活脫像是大地主。隔天則是梳化整齊的老闆娘顧店。找阿文一問,原來這對老夫妻還真的是旅館主人,也是馬公當地喊得出名號的大人物。
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